PR18 Levada do Rei Hike: Full Guide + Tips

We hiked Levada do Rei on the morning of our departure from Madeira, squeezing it in before driving to the airport. We didn’t have enough time to finish the entire trail, but even the part we walked gave us a really good feel for why this levada is one of the best hikes in Madeira.

From the first steps, the path pulls you into dense, bright-green forest, with flowers blooming along the trail. It’s the kind of walk that feels cool and shaded, even on warmer days.

Along the way, the trail opens up in places to give you quick views down into the valley, then slips back into jungle-like scenery again.

Like many Madeira levadas, it keeps things interesting with a few short tunnels, narrow sections, and the constant sound of running water beside you.

And then comes the moment everyone talks about — the waterfall that drops straight onto the path, with the trail passing slightly behind it. There’s no clever detour here: you just walk through it and accept that you’re getting wet.

In this guide, we share what to realistically expect from Levada do Rei, when it’s best to hike it, how to get there, and whether it’s worth fitting into your Madeira itinerary — all based on our own experience on the trail.

Why we think this hike is worth it?

Levada do Rei is worth it if you want a levada walk that’s not physically demanding. The trail stays mostly flat, but it doesn’t feel dull — it constantly changes between forest, open stretches, and small features that keep you engaged.

What we liked most is that it works well even if you’re short on time or don’t want a long mountain hike. You still get that classic Madeira levada experience: water running beside you, cool shade, and a route that feels adventurous.

Compared to some of the more famous hikes, it’s less about big viewpoints and more about being surrounded by the landscape, which makes it very relaxing.

Hiking Map

When to hike Levada do Rei

Levada do Rei isn’t one of Madeira’s most famous hikes, and that really works in its favor. We arrived in the late morning and it never felt crowded — we passed other hikers regularly, but there were no queues.

In terms of conditions, timing matters more for weather than for crowds. We went after a few rainy days, and parts of the trail were very muddy and slippery, especially in shaded sections where the ground doesn’t dry quickly.

If you want the trail at its best, aim for a dry spell.

Because most of the route is shaded, it’s also a good option on warmer days.

Getting to the trailhead

Levada do Rei starts near São Jorge in the north of Madeira. You can reach it either by car or by bus, but the difference in time is significant.

By car

This is what we did, and it’s by far the easiest option. From Funchal, the drive takes about 45 minutes. The last part goes through small village roads, but everything is paved and manageable if you take it slow.

There’s a small free parking area close to the trailhead. We had no troubles with finding a free parking spot.

We always rent a car through DiscoverCars because it lets us compare prices and insurance easily. If you’re still deciding, we go into much more detail in our full guide to renting a car in Madeira.

By bus

You can take bus 103 or 138 from Funchal towards São Jorge. The ride takes about 2 hours, and you’ll need to get off at Chão da Felpa, which is still around a 20-minute walk uphill from the trailhead.

It’s doable if you’re not driving, but it turns a short hike into a much longer day, so it’s worth factoring that into your plans.

Trail Description

From the very start, the trail follows the levada channel, passing a small water station before slipping straight into greenery. We were immediately welcomed by an incredible mix of colours from blooming flowers, which made the first part of the walk feel especially fresh and alive.

Most of the route runs through forest and dense, almost jungle-like vegetation, with long stretches where you’re fully surrounded by green. The first half feels quite consistent — a mix of narrow, muddy sections alternating with wider, easier paths, always with the levada flowing beside you.

In the second half, there’s a short detour to a small waterfall with a pool underneath, which is worth stopping at for a quick break. Not long after, the trail passes through a few short tunnels, and then you reach the main highlight.

Here, the path becomes a narrow ledge carved into the mountain, with safety rails along the exposed side, and a waterfall pouring directly over the trail. Unless you’re wearing a rain jacket, you’ll get wet.

This is where we turned back — we were running out of time, and we were hiking with Ema, who was just 3 months old in a carrier, and we didn’t want her soaked.

After this section, the trail continues a bit further to the final part, where another waterfall marks the end of the route.

Facilities on the trail

Levada do Rei is very natural, and there are no real facilities once you’re on the trail. There are no toilets, cafés, or water refill points along the route, so it’s best to come prepared.

At the trailhead, there’s a small family restaurant.

Where to eat

• Quinta Levada do Rei – A family-run restaurant right at the trailhead, with bost local and international cuisine. We love it’s garden-like setting.
• Bolo do Caco Grill & Pizza – We tried their bolo do caco pizza and it was surprisingly tasty. Soft, charred flatbread with fresh toppings. It’s a family-run spot with very friendly atmosphere.

Trail difficulty

Levada do Rei is classed as an easy hike, and in terms of elevation and distance, it really is. The trail is mostly flat and well-defined, with no steep climbs or technical sections.

That said, there are a few narrow parts, and some sections feel more exposed than others. Nothing extreme, but you do need to watch your footing.

After rain, the trail can become muddy and slippery. This was our experience, and it slowed us down more than expected.

There are also a couple of short tunnels, so a phone torch or headlamp is useful. Overall, it’s an easy hike for most people.

Where to stay

Where you base yourself in Madeira really affects your trip. Whether you want something lively full of night life, or a peaceful stay in nature, there’s something for everyone.

We go into much more detail in our full where to stay in Madeira guide, where we break down the best areas and hotel picks depending on how you like to travel. Below are the three places we’d personally recommend based on our own stays.

⭐️⭐️⭐️ Hotel Porto Mare – PortoBay (our top pick) – This was one of our favorite stays in Madeira, especially as a base after long hiking days. Porto Mare feels more like a tropical garden than a hotel, with palm trees, several pools, and ocean views that make it easy to slow down once you’re back from the mountains.

What we loved most was coming back here to relax — walking through the gardens, sitting by the pool, or heading to dinner without needing to go anywhere else. The themed dinners were a nice surprise too, as every evening felt a bit different.

⭐️ Best for: Comfort, relaxation, and unwinding after big hiking days
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⭐️⭐️ Aqua Natura Bay – Aqua Natura Bay has a much more intimate feel. It’s smaller, quieter, and more boutique-style than the bigger resorts, which we really appreciated. The atmosphere is calm, and it feels like a place designed for slowing down.

The rooftop infinity pool was the standout for us, with wide views over both the ocean and the mountains — one of the most relaxing spots we found on the island. The restaurant menu isn’t huge, but everything we ate was genuinely good, which we preferred over a large but forgettable buffet.

⭐️ Best for: Boutique stays, views, and a quiet hiking base
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⭐️ Quinta das Vinhas – Quinta das Vinhas is all about location and atmosphere. Set among vineyards, it has a much more rural feel than staying near the coast. It’s quiet, spacious, and ideal if you want to disconnect rather than stay somewhere resort-like.

Mornings and evenings here were especially nice, with vineyard views. It works best if you have a car, since it’s more secluded, but that’s also why it feels so relaxing.

⭐️ Best for: Quiet countryside vibes and total switch-off
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FAQs

Final Thoughts

Levada do Rei is one of those hikes that doesn’t try to impress with huge viewpoints, but quietly wins you over with how lush and varied it feels from start to finish. Even though we didn’t walk the full trail, it still left us with the feeling that we’d seen a really good slice of Madeira’s green side.

What we liked most is how accessible it is, well-marked, and interesting the whole way through. It works just as well for a relaxed walk as it does for a family hike, and it’s a good choice if you want something scenic without committing to a full mountain day.