Fanal Forest Madeira: Complete Guide to the Magical Foggy Forest

Fanal Forest is one of Madeira’s most magical spots.

When we first visited, we were amazed by the ancient laurel trees wrapped in soft mist—it felt like stepping into a fairytale. Whether you enjoy hiking, photography, or just a peaceful nature escape, Fanal Forest is a must-see.

In this guide, we’ll share everything we learned—from how to get there and the best time to visit, to hiking tips and what to expect from the weather and fog. Plus, our personal experience to help you plan the perfect visit.

Quick Overview

Fanal Forest is one of the most unique places in Madeira. It’s part of the island’s ancient Laurisilva forest, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it’s especially famous for its twisted laurel trees often surrounded by a mystical fog.

You’ll find Fanal Forest in the northwestern part of the island, in the Paul da Serra plateau. It’s easy to reach by car, especially if you take the scenic ER209 route — one of our favorite drives on the island.

There’s no entrance fee to visit the forest, and parking is free in a large open lot just a short walk from the main access.

This is a great spot for an easy walk, quiet time in nature, or moody photography. Most people spend 1–2 hours here, but if you’re into hiking, you can easily extend your visit.

Just note: there are public toilets, but no shops or cafés at Fanal Forest, so make sure to bring everything you need with you.

What is Fanal Forest & Why Visit It?

Fanal Forest is part of Madeira’s ancient Laurisilva forest, a rare type of cloud forest that once covered much of Southern Europe.

What makes it so special are the centuries-old laurel trees, with twisted trunks and wide canopies, often covered in moss and surrounded by fog. The whole place feels untouched — quiet, surreal, and beautifully wild.

We had seen photos of the misty trees online and weren’t sure if it really looked like that in person. But when we arrived early in the morning and saw the fog drifting through the trees, it actually felt better than we expected. Peaceful, eerie, and absolutely magical.

This spot is perfect for slow travel moments — walking without a set plan, taking moody photos, and enjoying nature.

You don’t need to hike far to experience the beauty here, which makes it great even for a short visit. If you’re looking for a unique side of Madeira, Fanal Forest is 100% worth it.

Where is Fanal Forest

Fanal Forest is located in the northwestern part of Madeira, in the Paul da Serra plateau — the island’s largest and flattest highland area. It sits at around 1,100 meters above sea level. The area is peaceful, remote, and very different from the busy coastal towns.

How to get here

By car + parking tips

The easiest and most flexible way to get to Fanal Forest is by rental car. It’s about a 1-hour drive from Funchal or 40 minutes from São Vicente.

We highly recommend taking the scenic ER209 route — it’s one of the most beautiful roads in Madeira, especially early in the morning when the fog starts rolling across the hills.

There’s a huge free parking lot right next to the main part of the forest, just steps away from the laurel trees.

By public transport

Public transport is very limited. There’s no direct bus. We don’t recommend relying on buses unless you’re very flexible with timing.

Join a group tour

If you’d rather not rent a car, this highly rated 4WD tour is a great way to visit Fanal Forest and other must-see places in western Madeira. It includes stops at Fanal, Seixal, Porto Moniz, and even the famous Cabo Girão skywalk — all in one day.

We picked this tour because it’s one of the most booked and best-reviewed on the island. It’s a great option if you want to sit back, relax, and see some of Madeira’s highlights with a knowledgeable local guide.

Our experience in Fanal Forest

We visited Fanal Forest twice in one day — and we’re honestly glad we did.

The first time, we arrived early in the morning. The huge parking lot was still almost empty, and the fog was drifting through the trees just like in the photos.

But it was also super windy, and since Ema was just 3 months old, we didn’t want to push it. So we left, hoping to come back later in better conditions.

When we returned in the afternoon, though, we immediately felt a bit of regret. The parking lot was packed with buses, minivans, and 4WDs. There were people everywhere, and on top of that, it was still windy — plus it started raining.

But Fanal is one of the best things to do in Madeira, so we didn’t want to skip it. We dressed properly, put Ema in the carrier, grabbed our umbrellas, and headed out anyway.

And we’re so glad we did.

By the time we actually started walking, most people had already left or were just finishing up. The rain had scared off the crowds, and the fog created a beautiful misty atmosphere that made everything feel extra peaceful and magical.

The best part? Fanal Forest isn’t just one photo spot — it’s a wide, open area. So even if others are around, it’s easy to find quiet corners and feel like you have it all to yourself.

We walked slowly between the trees, stopped for photos, and let Ema nap while we enjoyed the calmness. The wind calmed down and the rain stopped after a while. It felt like one of our favorite moments in Madeira — raw, real, and beautiful in its own way.

Fanal Forest hikes

There are two main ways to explore Fanal Forest: a short walk among the ancient laurel trees or the official PR13 hike. Both are beautiful, and you can easily decide based on how much time and energy you have.

PR13 Vereda do Fanal (moderate)

This official hiking trail connects Fanal Forest with Assobiadores. It takes around 4 hours and is 10.8 kilometers long one way. It’s an out-and-back trail, meaning you follow the same route both ways — unless you arrange a pickup at the other end.

The path leads through lush forest, open meadows, and has beautiful views along the way. It’s quieter than the main Fanal area, so ideal if you want a longer, peaceful nature experience.

Walk around the trees (easy)

This is the most popular way to experience Fanal. You don’t need a trail map — just wander freely through the forest near the main parking area. The trees are spread out across rolling hills, and you can spend 30 minutes or a couple of hours exploring.

When to Visit Fanal Forest

Best time of year

You can visit Fanal Forest all year round, but the best months are May to August. That’s when the chances of catching the iconic fog are highest, while still having enough sunlight for photos and hiking.

Spring and early summer also bring greener landscapes and fewer rainy days.

That said, Madeira’s weather can be unpredictable — it’s normal to get sun, wind, rain, and fog all in one day, so always come prepared!

Best time of day

Morning is usually your best bet. It’s quieter, with fewer tour groups, and you’ll have a better chance of seeing that magical low fog that rolls through the trees. If you come at sunrise, you might even have the place almost to yourself.

Afternoon tends to be busier, especially after 11:00, when most tours arrive. They’re usually gone by 14:00 or 15:00.

But if it’s rainy or cloudy, don’t worry — that’s actually what creates the moody atmosphere Fanal is known for.

We visited both early in the morning and in the afternoon. Despite the crowds later in the day, we still had a great time once the big groups cleared out. So really, any time can be the right time, if you’re prepared and flexible.

What to expect with weather

Weather in Fanal Forest changes fast — and it’s part of the charm. One moment it’s sunny, the next it’s foggy, windy, or even raining. That’s totally normal here.

It’s a high-altitude area, so temperatures are usually cooler than in Funchal or by the coast. Even in summer, it can feel chilly and damp, especially with the wind. Rain showers are common, and the ground is often muddy.

It’s very important to bring layers — simple summer clothes won’t be enough! When we visited, it was really cold, with strong wind and non-stop rain. Everyone around us was completely soaked.

I wore a long-sleeved, warm jacket, and long pants, and I was still glad we brought an umbrella and had Ema well covered in the baby carrier.

So dress like you’re going for a mountain hike, not a beach walk — you’ll thank yourself later!

Is there always fog?

Not always — but honestly, it feels like it’s foggy most of the time.

Fanal Forest is famous for its mystical, dreamy fog, and we were lucky (or maybe just typical?) to only experience it with fog. It rolled in thick and stayed pretty much the entire time we were there..

That said, some people do catch it on a clear day without any mist, so it’s not guaranteed.

Our tip: If you’re chasing fog, your chances are good — but check a local webcam or weather app for the Paul da Serra region before you go. Still, even without fog, the forest is beautiful and peaceful. But with the fog? It’s like stepping into another world.

What to pack and wear

Packing right for Fanal Forest makes your visit much more comfortable. Here’s what we recommend based on our experience:

• Layers: The weather changes fast, so bring a mix of short and long-sleeved shirts.
• Waterproof jacket or raincoat: Rain and drizzle are common. Umbrellas can help, but a good rain jacket keeps you dry and your hands free.
• Comfortable hiking shoes: Trails can be muddy and slippery. Waterproof shoes or boots with a good grip are best.
• Water and snacks: There are no facilities inside the forest, so bring your own.
• Toilet paper: For the public bathrooms, not in the best conditions.

Available facilities

Fanal Forest offers basic facilities mostly at the entrance:

• Parking lot: Large and well-maintained, but fills up fast during busy times.
• Public toilets: Located at the entrance. We haven’t used them, but reviews say they are often dirty and in poor condition.
• Picnic area: Available near the entrance, a good spot to rest or eat before or after exploring.
• Information boards: You’ll find maps and trail details at the parking area.
• No shops or cafes: Bring your own snacks and water.

Facilities are minimal since the focus here is on preserving nature. Come prepared.

Photography tips

Fanal Forest is one of the most photogenic places in Madeira — especially when the fog rolls in. Here’s how to make the most of it:

• Aim for foggy conditions – The fog adds a dreamy, mysterious mood that makes the forest feel magical. Early mornings or post-rain are your best chances.
• Go off the path (responsibly) – Don’t just stay near the parking area. Walk into the open field and wander between the trees to find unique compositions.
• Shoot wide – A wide-angle lens works great here to capture the twisted laurel trees and the vastness of the landscape.
• Look for light rays – If the sun peeks through the fog, you might catch beautiful light beams between the branches.

• Bring protection for your gear – Rain and moisture are common. We used lens wipes, a rain cover, and a small towel to keep everything dry.
• Patience pays off – Weather changes quickly. If it’s too clear or too foggy, wait a bit — conditions might shift in your favor.
• Avoid weekends – For clean shots with fewer people in the frame, go on a weekday morning or late afternoon.

And don’t forget: the mood in this forest can change every minute, so shoot a lot and embrace the unpredictability!

Other things to do nearby

Porto Moniz Natural Pools

Only a 25-minute drive from Fanal, Porto Moniz has two sets of natural volcanic pools.

• The official pools are maintained, have changing rooms, and an entrance fee.
• The free natural pools nearby feel more raw and wild. Both are great for a refreshing swim on a sunny day.

Miradouros (Viewpoints)

Western Madeira has some of the island’s most beautiful viewpoints. These are our top picks:

• Miradouro do Véu da Noiva – Iconic waterfall dropping into the sea.
• Miradouro da Eira da Achada – Peaceful, panoramic spot with barely any people.
• Miradouro da Garganta Funda – A short walk leads to this powerful and tall waterfall crashing down a narrow canyon. Impressive, especially after rain!

Seixal & Seixal Beach

A charming coastal village with one of the few black sand beaches in Madeira. It’s perfect for a short stop, swim, or a quiet coffee break with a view.

These places are all close enough to visit in the same day with Fanal, especially if you’re doing a road trip around the west coast.

FAQs

Is it worth visiting without fog?

Definitely, the ancient trees look stunning in any light. That said, most days do feature fog, so your chances of seeing it are high.

Can I camp there?

Yes—but only in designated areas with a licensed permit from the IFCN (Madeira’s forest authority). Wild camping is strictly prohibited otherwise. Permits are free, but must be reserved in advance.

Is it suitable for kids/strollers?

Yes—Fanal is generally family-friendly. The main forest area near the parking lot is flat and manageable, even for young children. Strollers aren’t gonna work here, so we recommend a baby carrier or hiking backpack instead.

How long to spend there?

You can enjoy Fanal with just 1 hour, which is enough to walk around the main area and soak in the atmosphere. If you plan to hike or picnic, budget 2–3 hours. Longer trails like the PR13 Vereda do Fanal can take half a day.

What’s the entrance fee?

t’s free to enter. There’s no ticket or entry gate. Public parking near the trailhead is also free.

Final thoughts

Fanal Forest was one of the most memorable places we visited in Madeira. Despite the wind, rain, and crowds, we’re so glad we didn’t skip it. The atmosphere, especially with the fog, felt almost unreal — like stepping into another world.

It’s not a typical hike or viewpoint. It’s more about slowing down, walking between ancient trees, and just being in the moment.

Come prepared for any weather, wear proper layers, and try to visit early or late in the day. Whether it’s misty or sunny, you’ll see why Fanal is such a special spot.

We’d go back in a heartbeat.